New Hampshire Golf, 2004
A golfer with a taste for fine living and even finer fairways heeds the call of the sea
Growing up on the seacoast and living on a salt marsh, I spent many hours in the bays and oceans. I also spent a great deal of time on seaside golf courses, always acutely aware of the ocean’s pull and presence. The smell of the water and salt marsh, the feel of the ocean winds were ever present. The rhythmic waves and ebb and flow of the tides are a metronome to my being. Although I now live in the hills of New England, the longing for salt air and the magnificent rejuvenation of the sea lives on. Thus, I recently packed my golf clubs and headed for the towns of the Southern Maine Coast and Mid-Coast Maine. This alluring region- a little over a half-day’s drive from Manhattan and less than an hour-and-a-half from Portsmouth includes many sand beach communities, shore towns, and villages that offer an assortment of shops, restaurants and activities to satisfy a variety of travelers. The lodging here is of a quality worthy of a sea captain, while the golf courses would please a captain of industry. Indeed, the number of courses in this area, and throughout the state of Maine, has increased consistently in recent years, with some 25 new courses opening since 1990. I didn’t play all of them on my visit, but I did play enough to satisfy my golfer’s soul and reconnect my spirit to the sea.
THE FOUR-STAR TREATMENT
A good base to explore the Southern Maine Coast, for both veteran travelers and first-timers alike, is the seaside village of Kennebunkport. Here, a collection of spectacular seacoast homes and restored period mansions has been converted into splendid inns and bed-and-breakfasts. A favorite of mine is the 1802 House (800/932-5632; www.1802inn.com), a delightful restored farmhouse nestled in quiet solitude along the 15th fairway of the Cape Arundel Golf Club. Innkeepers Edric and Mary Ellen Mason promise an establishment that’s “secluded among towering pines and lush private gardens” and that’s exactly what they deliver, along with exceptional hospitality, spacious accommodations, delicious breakfasts and enjoyable company. It’s no wonder that Maine’s Down East Magazine singled out the inn for offering the “utmost in hospitality and comfort.” It’s an endorsement we heartily agree with. The nearby seaside village of Kennebunkport, meanwhile, is equally charming, with boutique shops, art galleries and restaurants- from lobster houses to fine dining- situated along the harbor and docks.
Other Kennebunkport inns I especially enjoy include The Captain Jefferds Inn (800/839-6844: www.captainjefferdsinn.com) and The White Barn Inn (207/976-2321; www.whitebarninn.com). Captain Jefferds is a charming historic inn in the historic center of town that has preserved the original splendor and architecture of the federal-style family it once was. (Animal-lovers take note: The innkeeper is a retired veterinarian and, thus, dogs are heartily welcome). The famous old White Barn Inn, meanwhile, has lodged travelers since the 1800s and has been transformed into a luxury hotel with elegant rooms, suites and cottages, many of which have fireplaces and whirlpools. The heated outdoor stone pool has adjacent cabana tents where massages are available. The restaurant, set in the original barn, enjoys a widespread reputation for its imaginative New England cuisine. The Relais Gourmand– honored chef can do things that will set your heart aflutter; the wine list is what you’d expect to find in Manhattan or San Francisco; and the service is commensurate with the quality of the food. (Note: jackets are required.) Other area restaurants worth a visit are On the Marsh (207/967-2299; www.onthemarsh.com), which offers intimate dining in an artistic atmosphere at a moderate price, and Cape Arundel Inn (207/967-2125; www.capearundelinn.com), a large cedar clapboard beach house set on the water overlooking George Bush’s nearby Walker Point compound, which has a delicious assortment of seafood dishes. (For more information on inns in the Kennebunkport area, visit www.kportinns.com.)
FANTASTIC FAIRWAYS
There is such a variety of good golf in Southern Coastal Maine and Mid-Coast Maine that one may not know where to begin. An excellent resource for golf in the state is the Golf Maine Association (877/553-4653; www.golfme.com), author of the Maine Golf Trail guide, even includes a detailed map. Here is a look at courses I recently played and which I highly recommend:
The Ledges Golf Club York Designed by Maine-based William Bradley Booth, this 6,981-yard course features rugged New England terrain, a birch forest setting, and many woodland inhabitants. The slope at this public layout ranges from 126 to 144, so be ready for a challenge. $55-$65; carts and rental clubs available; 207/351-9999; www.ledgesgolf.com.
The Links at Outlook South Berwick Built in the Scottish tradition on what was once a working farm, this 6,500-yard Brian Silva design is a true links course. It winds through hilly grass dunes, with many strategically-placed bunkers and undulating bent-grass fairways and greens. Golf packages are offered that include lodging at The Cliff House, located in the nearby seaside town of Ogunquit. $38-$50; 207/384-4653; www.outlookgolf.com
Cape Arundel Golf Club Kennebunkport Established in 1897, Cape Arundel is a delightful, classic links-style course- 6,000 yards, par 69- with small greens, ample fairways, tidal rivers and dirt or grass cart paths; it’s always in glorious condition. The present-day course was designed in 1921 by Walter Travis, with bunkers galore and some very challenging water holes. It’s a good walking course and speedy play is common as greens are adjacent to the ensuing trees. Head pro Ken C. Raynor has played more rounds with U.S. Presidents than any PGA professional ever. Former President George Bush, who lives nearby in Kennebunkport, plays here often. Note: From 11am to 2:30pm this course if open only to members. $20-$49; 207/967-3494; www.capearundel.com
Dune Grass Golf Club Old Orchard Beach Designed by North Carolina-based Dan Maple, this 6,644-yard well-maintained course is routed over 300 acres of wooded terrain. The course has a Carolina feel, with houses behind tall pines lining many fairways. Dune Grass offers memberships but is considered a public, daily-fee course. Stay-and-play packages are available. Call for current rates; 800/521-1029; www.dunegrass.com
HEADING NORTH TO MID-COAST MAINE
If you have the time, after visiting the Kennebunkport area, head north to the best golf resort on the Maine coast; Samoset Resort on the Ocean. On the way, you’ll want to stop at Sable Oaks Golf Club, in South Portland, and Nonesuch River Golf Club, in Scarborough. Designed by Geoffrey Cornish and Brian Silva, the 6,359-yard Sable Oaks has tournament-tough slope of 138 from the tips, where target golf is the order of the day. The course sits on a high point in South Portland, with soft narrow fairways and gentle rolling manicured greens. ($35-$50; 207/775-6257 www.sableoaksgolf.com). The 6,300 yard, 18-hole Nonesuch River Golf Club, built in 1997 and designed by Florida architect Tom Walker, incorporates both links-style holes and woodland holes routed over more than 200 acres just south of Portland. Position off the tee is essential. This very walkable course offers bent-grass greens and fairways, a pleasant clubhouse, driving range and golf academy. Golf packages are offered with the nearby Sheraton South Portland hotel. ($29-$37; 207/883-0007; www.nonesuchgolf.com)
About an hour north of Portland, Maine’s largest city, Samoset Resort on the Ocean can be reached on coastal Highway 1 after passing through Freeport, home to L.L. Bean and many upscale discount outlet stores. The resort sits on the rocky Maine coast, which affords morning views of a fog-shrouded Atlantic sunrise. Samoset is a one-stop resort, offering the entire package: rooms, suites, townhouse/condos and a seaside cottage (which tops out at $850 a day), pool, tennis courts, whale watching trips, activities for all ages and, of course, golf. The Samoset Resort Golf Club is a gem; many of the front nine holes play along Penobscot Bay offering spectacular views of both the bay and Atlantic Ocean. The course, which traverses from the sea to the woods and ornamental gardens, was originally designed by Robert Elder in 1902 and has undergone recent upgrades by Maine architect Bradley Booth. Numerous awards and accolades have brought a lot of attention to Samoset- and justifiably so. (207/594-1431 www.samoset.com).
